Avritning av manströja Dalby socken, Norra Elfdals Härad. Kvinnotröja Blomskogs socken, Nordmarks härad.

Brud Ekshärad.  Wermländing. Par från Gösse härad.

 Det finns många bevarade plagg att välja emellan, visserligen finns det inte tyger till samtliga.
Alltid svart kjol med röda band nertill. 1 - 5 band kan det vara.
Det kan vara ett hemvävt kraftigare tyg eller ett smidigt tunnare.
Vitt linneplagg med mer eller mindre mängd broderi, oftast i vitt på axel och ärmlinning.
Smal halskant. Vita strumpor och svarta, tunnare skor.
Naturvitt förkläde med rött tryck till lite mindre högtid.
Rött helyllelivstycke av barkantyg. ( ett litet blommönster)    eller 
Rött damastvävt livstycke med glest blommönster i tre färger och med en hel smäck över knäppningen fram  
( ser ut som en vapensköld ungefär ) Smäcken ska ha en blomma på sig.       eller
Blått livstycke av samma sorts tyg som nyss nämnda. ( Ingen smäck på detta )
Vit linnehatt eller möjligen bindmössa och stycke. 
Aldrig barhuvad om man ej är gift, men i vilket fall, ska håret vara upplindat och ej hängande.
Ingen väska. Broderat halskläde eller ett sidenhalskläde.

Skor från Filipstad (Bergslag) + Ny Socken + Ekshärad.

Observera att bilderna, ritningarna och texterna inte får användas annat än för Ditt högst privata bruk!
De får inte publiceras eller användas i visningar eller liknande utan mitt skriftliga tillstånd
enligt lagen om upphovsmannarätt.  © Bo Skräddare.  Tel: 0760 358 901.  
COPYRIGHT:  All photographs on this site are my copyright. 
If you wish to use them for your own personal use then I will be pleased and flattered.  
However, if you wish to make any commercial use of these images then you will require my permission.  
High quality images of any of these photographs can be supplied on request. 
You may contact me by e-mail:
Webbdesign © Bo Skräddare 2010.  Tel: 0760- 358 901.
 E-mail till Ingers Folkdräktsservice:

In English.
VäRMLAND.

There are many old costume traditions preserved in Värmland, particularly in the northern and western parts of the province. There is also a good deal of dress information about the province in old travel journals and in a rich memoir literature that contains valuable accounts of local customs. But in spite of this wealth of source material there still exists no comprehensive survey of the dress practices here, which are nevertheless among the most interesting in the country. Anna-Maja Nylen in her article has pointed this out, from 1973 on The Folk Dress Practices in Värmland. She gives many valuables bibliographical references, and raises many interesting questions that have not yet been dealt with, for example the extent of the influence from the Finnish inhabitants in Värmland on dress practices, or the remarkable fact that the men here, contrary to the situation elsewhere, kept their characteristic costumes longer than the women did, in certain cases well into the 1880s. 
Värmland is an expansive province where the variation in physical environment has meant different conditions of living for the inhabitants. It is also a typical borderland area, where different impulses meet: cultural elements from southern Sweden, from the north, from Norway- evident, among other things, in the dialects- and, in addition, from the Finnish immigrant culture, which had been established in the forested regions in the western and northern parts of the province at the end of the sixteenth and beginning of the seventeenth centuries. 
In the vast forests of the north the population settlements are concentrated along the river valleys. The oldest folk costumes and the ones used longest in Värmland are found in these regions. The big farms and manorial estates, the more densely populated regions and larger towns are all found in the south near Lake Vänern, and here, since the use of folk dress was dropped at an early date, modern clothing had long ago been adopted. 
Yet, more than anything else, that which has shaped the image of Värmland was the old, small mining industry communities. Ore has been mined in the province since the fifteenth century, with a culmination of activity reached in the 1760s. Also the wood industry developed early; being close to Gothenburg this industry prospered earlier in Värmland than in he rest of the country. Commercial interests in Gothenburg made the international market accessible for Swedish wood products already in the early 1800s. 
The prevalent picture of the province has been formed by these mining and milling community environments, with all that that this implies of lively communications with the outer world, characteristic estate residences and worker's dwellings according to class and the dominance of middle-class values and modern dress. There had certainly existed characteristic working attire but, on the other hand, no traditional, distinctively local dress. True folk costume features in the other areas, above all in the districts of älvdal and Nordmark, where, for example, the men still wore long jackets with a medieval cut as recently as a century ago. The women's white caps, called "hat" here, is also of great age. For the most part, though, it is the 18th-century styles that predominate in the preserved garments, with bodices with basques, and striped skirts and aprons as prominent features.

The folk costume vogue that developed after the First World War was also registered in Värmland. This interest was indicated in the Swedish Tourist Association's Yearbook from 1928 when five men's and women's costumes which had by then been adopted for use, were presented: Norra Ny, östervallskog, Ekshärad, Fryksdalen and Jösse härad. In 1934 a costume committee for the province was founded by the folk culture association, "Värmlands hembygdsförbund", with headquarters at the Handicraft Society in Karlstad. Since then the costume committeehas led all costume projects in the province. This reconstruction work has been intensified during the past two decades, and a number of costumes have been composed for parishes that had no representative regional dress earlier. This applies particularly to the central parts where the preserved material is often very incomplete. Long coats, so typical of Värmland, and worn, as mentioned above, well in the late 1800s, have been adopted for the men's costumes in the entire province. Some of these have retained the medieval cut, with backs in one piece, and some have a later frock style with waist seam and are often gusted, giving width to the back.

öSTERVALLSKOG: The costume has three woolen skirts with wide stripes in red, brown-black and gray. The skirts are of different lengths, staggered so that each one can be seen. This remarkable practice of wearing many skirts simultaneously also occurred in areas of Skåne and Halland, and was a from of ostentatious luxury. This costume otherwise consists of a woolen apron with red stripes of chine yarn on a white ground, broace bodice with basque and hooks, white neckerchief with printed pattern, white stockings, blue jacket with hooks, and the married women's white linen bonnet around which is a "pannakläde". a "forehead cloth"- a square of white cloth folded into a narrow band and wrapped around the hood twice and tied at the top of the head. Further, two waist-bags are worn, one on each side, connected with a band around the waist.

The stockings have red heel patches of homespun and the shoes have birch-bark soles and indented heels, fashionable in the 1600s and retained in peasant dress in many parts of the country.

During the summer the men can wear yellow knee breeches in chamois leather, red vests with hooks and eyes and with backs of lining fabric, white stockings, and red tasseled stocking ties. A blue jacket can also be worn, with hooks and a wedge skull-cap, "trindmössa", of red homespun. There is an old-style long coat of gray homespun with hooks and eyes. It is cut with neither waist nor back seams and is thus a kind of frock jacket related to the medieval frock- Gussets give width to the skirt.

The cotumes from östervallskog reveal several old features, but few original garments are preserved, as they fell into disuse and disappeared in the first part of the 19th century. Because of the difficulty in obtaining originals for the Nordiska museet in the 1870s, a local tailor was given the task of sewing complete costumes based on information and descriptions of the old garments-an early example, we can say, of costume reconstruction. During the collection projects in the 1870s, these costumes were spoken of as being typical of Holmedal parish.- östervallskog was never mentioned then, but has since become so intimately associated with these striking costumes that the name became established very early in the folk culture movement after P.G. Wistrand reproduced them in his book Svenska Folkdräkter from 1907.

DALBY: The woman, typically, has a dark-brown one-piece skirt and hooked bodice, blouse with red embroidery, apron with black ground and interwoven red stripes and lower checkered pattern, embroidered waist-bags, one on each side, white stockings, and soft white cap for married women (the unmarried use hair-bands). A black jacket with hooks is also used.

The man can wear a buttoned vest of black broadcloth, yellow breeches, and a long coat, called "jacket" ("tröja), of dark-brown homespun. Having no waist seam and cut with one back piece and two front pieces, it is traceable to the ancient medieval smock-frock. Two gusset inserts give width to the coat. The red cuffs and trimming are, as well as the upright collar, additions from later periods. He will also wear a shirt with tie-bands, white stockings, knee-bands, and dark-brown "trindmössa" skullcap. Leather breeches are used for variation, as is a blue or black sleeved waistcoat.

Characteristic local costumes prevailed longer in Dalby-Finnskoga than in any other places in Värmland. The Dalby frocked-jacket coat was occasionally seen being worn as late as the end of the 19th century. It is shown in Nylens Folkdräkter.

NORRA NY: The men's costume consists of yellow knee breeches, white stockings with red embroidered clocks, "leaves", at the ankles, short red  double-breasted vest with jagged pattern and polished metal buttons, skullcap in blue and red, and black long coat with upright collar and hooks, and gusted, giving width to the backwhere the coat is also decorated with cussed patterns and black woolen balls. Often worn with the Norra Ny men's costume today is a shirt richly embroidered in red and white, and over this a short red vest which is tailored in such a way that it cannot be fastened. This practice can be traced to Cederblom's book Svenska allmogedräkter from l921, which portrays a men's costume from Nora Ny with open vest to display the finely embroidered bridegrooms shirt. Becoming very popular, open vests were considered characteristic of the region. It ought to be pointed out, however, that such a richly embroidered shirt is a rare festival garment and that no vest in former times was ever sewn so that it could not be fastened.

The women's costumes are typically made of black goffered skirts of half-wool joined to bodices of striped wool, fastened by overlapping on the side with hooks and eyes, green aprons of half-wool with red trimming, black stockings,and, often, hair-bands of birch-bark ("hårnäver") for unmarried women. Married women in Värmland wear white caps. An unmarried girl can have a red damask bodice which together with a multi-colored silk neckerchief, can lend a more dressed-up appearance .

Norra Ny parish is in the älvdal district, which is the most conservative costume area in Värmland, where old traditional costumes were still consistently worn in the 1860s.
______________________________________________________________________

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 Från Värmland finns nio dokumenterade (alla delar i dräkten finns bevarade) kvinnodräkter och 12 rekonstruerade (bara någon del av dräkten bevarad,  resten nyskapat eller utformat efter omgivande dräkter eller skriftliga beskrivningar) kvinnodräkter, dessutom  21 komponerade (nyskapade utan bevarade plagg som förlaga) kvinnodräkter. Det finns 10 dokumenterade mansdräkter och 9 rekonstruerade, dessutom 10 komponerade mansdräkter. 
Dräkter i landskapet Värmland, Bergsmansdräkt, Blomskog, Brattfors, Brunskog, Dalby, Eda, Ekshärad, Forshaga-Grava, Frykerud, Fryksdal, Fryksände, Gillberga, Glava, Gräsmark, Gunnarskog, Hammarö, Jösse härad, Kil, Köla, Långserud, Mangskog, Nedre Älvdal, Nor, Ed, Grums, Norra Finnskoga, Norra Ny, Nyed, Ransäter, Silbodal, Sillerud, Sunne, Svanskog, Ullerud, Ullvettern, Visnum-Kil, Värmlands-Näs, Värmskog, Västra ämtervik, Ölme, Ölme-Väse, Östervallskog, Östmark, Östmark, Östra Fågelvik och Degerfors.  Fler bilder kommer så fort jag hinner!

Hälsningar Ingers Folkdräktservice. 

Observera att bilderna, ritningarna och texterna inte får användas annat än för Ditt högst privata bruk!
De får inte publiceras eller användas i visningar eller liknande utan mitt skriftliga tillstånd
enligt lagen om upphovsmannarätt.  © Bo Skräddare.  Tel: 0760 358 901.  
COPYRIGHT:  All photographs on this site are my copyright. 
If you wish to use them for your own personal use then I will be pleased and flattered.  
However, if you wish to make any commercial use of these images then you will require my permission.  
High quality images of any of these photographs can be supplied on request. 
You may contact me by e-mail:
Samtliga bilder klickbara.
Webbdesign © Bo Skräddare 2010.  Tel: 0760-358 901.
E-mail till Ingers Folkdräktservice: